Many splendoured things: Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipes for vegetable dishes to feed a crowd
Christmas is a relatively new experience for me. I’ve only been celebrating it for a few years – ever since I teamed up with a „good” Catholic boy – but I already have some very clear ideas about how this thing should be done. (How Jewish is that?!)
I’m terrible at throwing anything away, no matter how little it gets used, and my loved ones get around this affliction simply by not indulging my hoarding instinct when it comes to Christmas presents. So, while everyone else gets to delight in a multitude of novelty knick-knacks and new toys, I’m invariably left to focus on one sensible, what-I-actually-need gift.
The kitchen table, on the other hand, is no place for such restraint, and certainly no place buy canada goose jacket cheap to allow any one ingredient to dominate, no matter how impressive. There’s always a sense of occasion about having a star of the show, but it’s often the chorus of side dishes and sharing plates that is the most fun. Bright green brussels sprouts, roasted and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds and basil; orange root vegetable mash with red wine-braised shallots; golden yellow champagne and saffron jelly – these are what bring colour to the party.
The more abundant the platters piled high with vegetables are, the more sharing and passing around are required, which in turn leads to a more convivial dining experience. Yes, that mighty fish or fowl or prime cut of meat will elicit the initial big „Wow!” but what really buy canada goose parka ottawa keeps everyone together at the table is the grazing afterwards, reaching for just one more roast parsnip or potato from the communal dish.
Today’s recipes, then, are the best of both worlds, whether you are one of those lucky souls who can expect to receive all sorts of new kitchen kit this Christmas, from home smoker to domestic sous-vide machine, or whether, like me, you’ll have to improvise and make do with what you’ve already got. Even so, I still haven’t given up hope of getting just one more garlic press, lemon squeezer or microplane grater in my stocking.
Grilled squash with bagna càuda
Bagna càuda is a warm dip popular in Piedmont, Italy, that’s made with butter, garlic and anchovies. It’s traditionally served like a fondue, placed in a bowl in the centre of the table for communal sharing, and the assembled diners dip in this or that crudité at will. But I find it also works well as a sauce, spooned on top of cooked vegetables. This version has cream in it, which isn’t terribly traditional, but it makes the sauce more homogenous and silky. Try to get your hands on a queen or coquina squash for this dish, if you can, because it best fake canada goose jacket isn’t quite as sweet as butternut (the latter would work fine as a substitute, though). Serves four.
1.2kg squash (queen or coquina, for preference), cut are there any canada goose outlet stores in half lengthways, deseeded and peeled, then cut widthways into 1cm slices2 tbsp olive oilSalt and black pepper 50g unsalted butter5 garlic cloves, crushed6 anchovy fillets, finely chopped200ml double cream2 tbsp finely grated parmesan1 tbsp chopped parsley
Heat the oven to 200C/390F/gas mark 6. In a bowl, mix the slices of squash with the oil, a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Put a chargrill pan on a high heat and, after a couple of minutes, once it’s good and hot, add the squash in batches and cook for two minutes, turning once, until char marks appear on both sides. Transfer to a baking tray and repeat with the remaining squash. Once all the squash is charred and on the tray, roast for 15 minutes, until cooked through but still with some bite.
To make the bagna càuda, put the butter and garlic in a medium pan on a medium heat. Fry until the garlic starts to turn golden: about two minutes. Add the anchovy, cook for a minute, turn the heat to medium-low, add the cream and cook for five minutes, so the sauce thickens a little, then remove from the heat. Spread out the squash on a large plate, spoon the bagna càuda on top and sprinkle with the parmesan, some black pepper and parsley. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Smoked beetroot with yoghurt and caramelised macadamias
For those, like me, who can’t rely on being given a home smoker this Christmas, you can can you wash a canada goose coat build your own approximation with just a roll of tin foil and a big wok or pan for which you have a lid. A timer is essential, because the flavour will become too intense if smoked for too long; a smoke detector is optional (but advisable). Serves buy canada goose jacket online cheap four.
250g long-grain riceShaved peel of 1 lemon5 sprigs fresh thyme12 medium beetroots, skin on1 tsp maple syrup2 tbsp olive oil, plus a little extra for drizzlingSalt and black pepper35g caster sugar50g macadamia nuts150g Greek yoghurt½ tsp Aleppo chilli flakes5g bu sees a spike in canada goose jacket thefts picked coriander leaves
Heat the oven to its highest setting – 240C/465F/gas mark 9 at least, preferably 250C. Line a large sauté pan or wok with two large sheets of tin foil, leaving the best canada goose coat for skiing edges generously overhanging the sides. Add the rice kids, lemon peel and thyme, and stir through two tablespoons of water. Sit the beetroots on top of the rice and seal the pan with a large lid. Draw up the tin foil and fold it back over the lid, to completely seal the beets and lid in foil; any gaps will hamper the smoking process.
Put the pan over a very high flame on the stove top and, once you see a little bit of smoke coming through – after three or four minutes – leave to smoke for exactly eight minutes, then remove from the heat.
Discard the rice, lemon peel and thyme, transfer the beets to a baking tray and roast in the hot oven for 45-50 minutes, or until a sharp knife goes in easily. Remove, set aside to cool, then peel off the charred skin.
Cut the beets into 2mm-thick slices and put them in a large bowl with the maple syrup, a tablespoon of olive oil, half a teaspoon of salt and some black pepper. Mix bu sees a spike in canada goose jacket thefts together and set aside.
Turn down the oven to 140C/285F/gas mark 1. Put the nuts on a roasting tray, bake for 15 minutes, then remove from the oven. Meanwhile, line another tray with parchment paper. Put the sugar in a small saucepan and cook on a gentle heat; don’t stir as the sugar melts and starts to caramelise and turn golden. Carefully add the nuts, and stir gently to coat. Pour out best canada goose jacket review the sticky nuts on to the lined tray, leave to cool, then chop and set aside. Mix the yogurt with the remaining olive oil and set aside.
Spread out the beetroot slices on a large platter, making sure they’re slightly overlapping each other. Drizzle over the yoghurt, sprinkle the chopped nuts on top and finish with the chilli flakes, coriander and a final dribble of oil.
• Yotam Ottolenghi is chef/patron of Ottolenghi and Nopi in London.